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Interlock Fabric: Double-Knit Structure, Properties and Applications

Interlock is a knitted fabric made with a double-knit technique on two needle beds; both faces look the same and flat, it does not curl, and it has a firm, full hand. It offers a more stable and opaque feel than single jersey.

Last updated:

Yazar: Cemal Karabiçek — Kurucu ve Genel Müdür, KARCEM

Close-up of full-bodied interlock knit fabric with both faces flat and identical
In interlock, both faces are flat and identical to each other; this symmetrical structure gives the fabric its non-curling edges and firm hand. The knit shown was produced in KARCEM's knitting department.

Interlock is a knitted fabric produced with a double-knit technique in which two separate needle beds work interlocked with one another, showing flat loops on both faces. By its very structure it is firmer, fuller and dimensionally more stable than single-faced knits such as single jersey. KARCEM produces interlock in the knitting department at its Esenyurt facility, offering it in weights and a hand suited to garment-manufacturing needs.

What is interlock fabric and how is it structured?

Interlock takes its name from the way the two needle beds on the knitting machine "interlock" their loops with one another. It is regarded as an advanced derivative of classic rib (1×1 rib) knitting: the 1×1 face-and-back sequence visible in rib knit is hidden in interlock by two separate loop layers overlapping one another. As a result, both the front and back faces of the fabric look flat and are indistinguishable from each other.

This double-layered construction gives the fabric a balance not found in single-faced knits. While the edges of single-faced knitted fabrics curl inward by nature, interlock's symmetrical structure eliminates this curling. Because this property makes cutting and sewing easier in garment production, it makes interlock a preferred base, especially for collared and detailed products.

The difference between interlock and single jersey

Although both fabrics are mostly knitted from cotton yarn, their structural construction is fundamentally different. Single jersey is a single-faced fabric knitted on a single needle bed; its front face is flat, its back face shows the loop rows, and its edges curl. Interlock, on the other hand, is a thicker and more stable fabric with both faces flat thanks to its double-bed structure.

PropertyInterlockSingle jersey
Knit typeDouble knit (two needle beds)Single knit (single needle bed)
Face appearanceBoth faces flat and identicalFront flat, back loopy
Edge curlingDoes not curlCurls
HandFirm, fullThin, fluid
OpacityHighMedium
Typical weight180-260 g/m²120-200 g/m²

Which fabric is right depends on the requirements of the product. For a fluid, lightweight t-shirt, single jersey stands out; for a more structured and durable product, interlock comes to the fore. For a detailed comparison of the two fabrics, you can refer to the single jersey vs interlock comparison.

The main properties of interlock

Interlock's popularity in garment manufacturing stems from several distinct technical advantages:

  • Dimensional stability: The double-layered structure increases the fabric's tendency to hold its shape during washing and use; with the right finishing, shrinkage rates are kept under control.
  • Opacity: The two loop layers make the fabric more opaque, which reduces transparency problems in light colors and thin garments.
  • Firm, full hand: The fabric feels heavier and more substantial in the hand; this is valuable for products seeking a premium perception.
  • Durability: The double-knit construction makes the fabric more resistant to abrasion and repeated washing.
  • No curling: The edges staying flat improves sewing quality and product finish.

These properties make interlock a fabric that is plain in appearance yet structurally strong. When stretch is required, an addition of Lycra (elastane) can be added to the structure to produce interlock-lycra variants.

Interlock weight and selection

The typical weight range of interlock is between 180-260 g/m². Because of its double-layered structure, this range starts heavier than single jersey fabrics intended for similar uses. Weight selection is made according to the product's season and the desired hand: the lower end of the range for lightweight babywear, and the upper end for substantial products such as sweatsuits and dresses.

Weight is not only about heaviness; it is also a critical parameter that determines the balance of coverage, durability and cost. To select the right weight, the weight (GSM) guide is a useful reference.

Applications of interlock

Interlock has a wide range of uses in both everyday wear and quality garment products. Thanks to its stable and opaque structure, it is frequently preferred in the following products:

  • Polo shirts: The collar standing upright and the fabric not curling make interlock ideal for polos.
  • Premium t-shirts: Its firm hand and opacity add value in upper-segment t-shirts.
  • Baby and children's wear: Its soft, opaque and durable structure is suitable for baby products.
  • Dresses and skirts: Its structure that holds form without sagging provides the drape sought in plain-cut dresses.
  • Sweatsuits and casual wear: Because of its durability and body, it is used in sweatshirt tops and bottoms.

Interlock fabric care

Interlock is a fabric that holds its form for a long time with the right care. The general recommendation, while following the instructions on the product label, is to wash cotton interlock at around 30 °C, inside out and with similar colors. The use of softener should be kept moderate; excessive softener can weaken the fabric's moisture-absorbing property.

Low heat should be preferred for drying, and high-temperature machine drying should be avoided, because heat increases the risk of shrinkage in cotton knits. Interlock generally does not require ironing and can be ironed at medium heat when needed. The finishing processes applied during production largely determine the fabric's dimensional behavior.

Frequently asked questions

Are interlok and interlock the same thing?

Yes. The word "interlok" is the Turkish spelling of the English term "interlock"; both describe the same double-knit fabric. Both spellings are used in the industry.

Does interlock fabric curl?

No. One of interlock's most distinct advantages is that its edges do not curl. This property stems from its symmetrical double-layered structure and makes it easy to handle during cutting and sewing.

Which is thicker, interlock or single jersey?

Interlock is thicker. Because of its double-knit structure, interlock fabrics intended for the same purpose start at a higher weight than single jersey and feel firmer and fuller in the hand.

Does interlock stretch?

Interlock offers natural stretch across the width, but it does not have elasticity as high as rib knit. When more stretch is required, elastane (Lycra) is added to the knit.

Which season is interlock suitable for?

Depending on the weight selection, interlock can be used in all four seasons. Low-weight interlock is preferred in spring-summer products, while high-weight interlock is preferred in autumn-winter products.

With KARCEM

In interlock production, consistent weight, stable dimensions and color reliability are the real value that working with a knitted fabric manufacturer brings. KARCEM controls the process end to end, from raw knit to finished lot.

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