Greige knit and greige woven are two separate fabric families in terms of base structure, behaviour and end use, even when they are made from the same yarn. Greige knit fabric is formed by interlooping a single yarn; greige woven fabric is formed by interlacing warp and weft yarns at right angles. This one structural difference shapes everything from stretch and edge curling to width and dyeing behaviour. KARCEM is a greige knit fabric manufacturer working on the knitted side; we do not produce woven fabric, but we explain both structures accurately so you can choose.
The structural difference: loops vs warp and weft
The whole difference starts with how the yarn comes together. In knitting, a single yarn continuously passes through itself in loops; each loop holds on to its neighbours like a spring. This chain of loops gives the fabric the ability to stretch without stretching the yarn, because the loops can open and close under load. Weaving uses two separate yarn sets: the warp running lengthways and the weft running across. The two sets pass over and under each other at right angles (in plain, twill or satin weaves) and form a fixed grid. The grid does not allow more movement than the yarn’s own elongation, which is why woven fabric is stable and knitted fabric stretches. You can find the loop logic and weight behaviour of knit structures in more detail in our knit fabric engineering guide.
Side-by-side comparison
Placing the two structures side by side against the criteria that affect a purchasing decision makes the difference clear.
| Criterion | Greige knit fabric | Greige woven fabric |
|---|---|---|
| Stretch | High; the loop structure stretches by itself and recovers even without elastane | Low; only as much as the yarn elongates — elastane is needed for stretch |
| Edge curling | Cut edges tend to curl (especially single jersey) | Edges stay flat and do not curl |
| Width form | Circular knitting supplies tubular or open width | Usually a fixed open width (fabric width depends on the loom) |
| Typical use | T-shirts, sweatshirts, underwear, tracksuits | Shirts, trousers, upholstery, gabardine |
| Weight logic | GSM is set by loop density and yarn count (90–700 g/m²) | GSM is set by warp/weft density and yarn |
| Dyeing behaviour | The porous loop structure takes dye quickly; width and length move during finishing | The tight grid allows slower penetration; dimensionally more stable |
If you are planning the weight comparison in figures, the fabric weight (GSM) guide gives typical ranges on the knitted side.
Is “greige cloth” knitted or woven?
Let us clear up a point that is often confused in the industry: the undyed cotton cloth sold as calico or muslin (in Turkey, “ham bez” or “Amerikan bezi”) is a woven fabric, not a knit. It is an undyed, unfinished, mostly cotton plain weave: the classic greige woven used for toiles, pattern making and print trials. So a buyer asking for this cloth is really looking for the woven side. The honest bridge: KARCEM does not produce calico (woven); KARCEM produces greige knit fabric. If your project is T-shirts, sweatshirts or underwear, the fabric you are looking for is most likely greige knit, not calico. “Greige” in both names does not make the two structures the same; it only means undyed and unfinished. You can find more on the greige concept in our glossary.
Stretch and dimensional behaviour
The most obvious advantage of knits is stretch. The loop structure gives a fabric that wraps the body and adapts to movement, which is why T-shirts and underwear are knitted. When elastane (Lycra) is added, this stretch gains recovery and the fabric keeps its shape; you can see the effect of elastane on the loop in our elastane knits guide. Woven fabric’s strength is the opposite: stability. The grid keeps the pattern fixed, which is why a shirt collar or trouser hem keeps its shape. Dimensional behaviour differs too: knitted fabric can show more visible shrinkage in washing as the loops relax, while woven moves less. For knits, the shrinkage testing and dimensional stability process is used to measure and set tolerances.
Which one for which product?
A rough roadmap helps you pick the right structure quickly.
- Greige knit suits: T-shirts, sweatshirts, tracksuits, underwear, sock bodies, baby bodysuits, sportswear — anywhere stretch and comfort are needed.
- Greige woven suits: shirts, tailored trousers, jacket linings, upholstery, curtains, bags and shapes that must hold their form.
- Either can work: some dresses and hooded products are made on both sides depending on the design; drape and the need for stretch decide.
On the knitted side, you can match which structure fits which product in the knit fabric guide.
Which one does KARCEM produce?
KARCEM works on the knitted side. We produce greige knit fabric on our own circular knitting machines (a knitting park including Mayer & Cie) with a capacity of 450 tonnes a month; we are your single point of contact from yarn to finished fabric and we manage the vetted contract network for dyeing, printing and finishing. Structures such as single jersey, interlock, rib, elastane knits and two- and three-thread French terry are produced in this park. Woven fabric (calico, gabardine, shirting) is outside our production; for such needs we point you in the right direction. See the knitted production side and capacity on our knit fabric manufacturer page, and the choice between the two core knits in the single jersey vs interlock comparison.
Frequently asked questions
Which stretches more, greige knit or greige woven?
Greige knit fabric stretches noticeably more. The loop structure opens and closes under load; woven fabric moves only as much as the yarn itself elongates because of the warp-and-weft grid. Wovens usually need elastane yarn to gain stretch; knits often do not.
Is calico knitted or woven?
Calico is a woven fabric. This undyed, unfinished cotton plain weave (in Turkey called “ham bez” or “Amerikan bezi”) is not a knit. “Greige” describes the unfinished state of the fabric, not its structure.
What fabric are T-shirts made from?
T-shirts are made from knitted fabric; the most common structure is single jersey, with rib or interlock in heavier styles. The stretch and comfort of knits give the T-shirt its fit to the body, which is why T-shirts are not made from woven fabric. You can review the structure choice on our single jersey fabric page.
Which shrinks more, knit or woven?
Knitted fabric can show more visible shrinkage because the loops relax in washing. Woven fabric stays dimensionally more stable thanks to its tight grid. In knits, shrinkage is controlled with the right finishing and compacting; it is measured through shrinkage testing and dimensional stability checks.
Can both greige knit and greige woven be dyed?
Yes, both structures can be dyed. The porous loop structure of knits takes dye quickly, but width and length can move during finishing; the tight grid of wovens takes dye more slowly but stays dimensionally more stable. On the knitted side KARCEM manages a vetted contract network for dyeing and printing; for the colour process see colour fastness and Delta E.
Is greige knit fabric cheaper than greige woven?
There is no fixed “cheaper” answer; the price per kilogram is set by fibre type, yarn count, weight, knit structure and finishing options. Because the two structures are produced on different machines with different efficiencies, a direct comparison is misleading. On the knitted side KARCEM prices on the combination of these factors; for an exact figure, create a sample or quote request.
Does KARCEM produce woven fabric?
No. KARCEM is a manufacturer on the knitted side and produces greige knit fabric; it does not produce woven fabric, including calico. Single jersey, interlock, rib, elastane knits and French terry are within our production. For woven needs we point you in the right direction.
What is the width difference between knit and woven?
In circular knitting the fabric comes off as a tube and is supplied as tubular or open width; this is related to the machine diameter. In weaving, width is usually a fixed open width that depends on the loom width. Because the width choice affects your cutting plan and waste rate, settle it before ordering.
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Related: knit fabric manufacturer · single jersey vs interlock · shrinkage testing and dimensional stability