Pique, Lacoste and Jersey: The Right Knitted Fabric for Polo Collars

What is the basic structural difference between pique, lacoste and jersey?

The three terms most often confused in polo fabric selection are pique, lacoste and jersey. Although all three are single knit structures produced on the knitting machine, the way the loops are linked completely changes the surface. The fundamental distinction is that the single jersey (plain jersey) surface is smooth, whereas pique and lacoste carry a raised pattern on the texture.

Jersey (single jersey): This is the simplest knit structure. Every needle forms a normal loop in every course; the face shows V-shaped plain loop columns and the back shows loop heads. The surface is smooth and flat. It has an elastic, fine and fluid hand; it is the basis of T-shirt fabric.

Pique: During knitting, "tuck" and sometimes "miss" stitches are added at regular intervals. These stitches gather the yarns on the surface to form small, raised honeycomb pores. The result is a three-dimensional, porous surface that can be felt to the touch. This is the texture of the classic polo shirt.

Lacoste: Lacoste is, in commercial usage, generally a type of pique produced with finer yarns, denser and with smaller pores. Generic by now from the classic polo texture of the "Lacoste" brand, the term describes a more closed, more even and more "premium"-looking honeycomb structure. The structural logic is the same as pique; the difference lies in pore density, yarn fineness and surface closure.

The real variable that distinguishes these three is the combination of stitch types. The tuck stitch accumulates yarn, the miss stitch skips yarn; the distribution of these two within the knit pattern determines the pore and textural depth. A structure with more tucks gives a more pronounced honeycomb; a denser and smaller tuck distribution gives a finer lacoste texture.

What is the difference between single pique and double pique on a pique surface?

Pique itself is divided into single and double, and this distinction directly affects product behaviour. Single pique is produced on the single knit principle; it is fine, elastic and has pronounced pores. Double pique, however, is a double knit structure; with the two needle beds working together, a thicker, firmer and dimensionally more stable fabric is formed.

The double pique structure shares the dimensional stability advantage provided by double-faced knits such as interlock and ponte: edge curling is markedly reduced, the fabric lies flatter and the form is better retained in the wash. For this reason, double pique is frequently preferred in more structured, more corporate-looking polo shirts.

The advantage of single pique is lightness and breathability. In summer polo shirts, single pique stands out when a more fluid and less formal hand is desired. Its disadvantage is the edge-curling tendency inherent in single knit structures and lower coverage; this in turn requires a good sanforising and finishing process.

Which fabric is right for a polo shirt in which situation?

There is no single "best" fabric for a polo shirt; the right choice depends on the use scenario. Each of the three structures serves a different product positioning:

• Pique (especially double pique): The most common choice for corporate uniforms, promotional products and the classic polo. The honeycomb texture masks dirt and creasing, the surface is stable enough for embroidery and printing, and the collar stands upright.
• Lacoste: Thanks to its finer yarn and dense pores, it offers a more refined, more "fashion" look. It is preferred in retail-branded, higher-positioned polo shirts.
• Jersey (usually with elastane): Suitable for sports/active polos, women's fits and body-hugging models that require a flat surface and high stretch. When used together with lycra/elastane, the recovery improves.

The table below compares the surface, typical use and behavioural characteristics of the three structures. Weight and hand results vary with yarn, knit density and finishing; the ranges below are tendencies commonly seen in the industry, and the exact specification should be clarified.

Making the fabric decision in isolation is a mistake; the print and embroidery method also depends on the structure. While fine-line transfer prints can be distorted on a pronounced honeycombed pique surface, a denser lacoste or jersey offers a smoother printing base. Embroidery, meanwhile, sits more stably on a full double pique.

How is the correct weight for a polo determined?

Weight is the fabric's weight per square metre and is one of the most visible indicators of polo quality. A low-weight polo feels light and cool but is perceived as more transparent and less durable; a high-weight polo feels more "quality" and firm but its comfort may drop in a hot climate. For a detailed approach, review the weight/GSM guide.

Weight alone is not a measure of quality. The same GSM value can give a very different hand with different yarn count (Ne) and knit density. A fine, densely knitted fabric will look smoother and more durable than a thick, loosely knitted fabric even at the same weight. For this reason, weight should be evaluated together with yarn and knit density.

The table below relates the weight tendency to structure and use scenario. The values show the tendency commonly seen in the industry; the binding specification should be defined separately for the target product and market.

In export-oriented production, the climate of the target market is decisive. While lighter and more breathable structures are preferred for polo shirts going to the Middle East and hot regions, medium-upper weight and double pique are more frequently requested in the European and North American corporate market.

Why must a polo collar stand stable, and which fabric achieves this?

The perceived quality of a polo shirt is determined most of all by the collar. Even if the body is perfect, a collar that spreads, curls or waves after washing makes the product look "cheap". The collar, separately from the body, is usually knitted as a rib or plain lacoste/pique piece and then sewn on; for this reason the stability of the collar is a separate engineering matter.

There are three main factors affecting collar stability: knit structure, yarn recovery property and finishing. Double-faced (interlock-like) collar structures curl less and stand more upright than single-faced ones. Rib collars containing elastane return better to form after stretching. Sanforising and proper heat-setting (heat-set) processes, on the other hand, reduce shrinkage and distortion caused by spirality.

Dimensional stability and post-wash shrinkage are critical test headings for a polo. The shrinkage rates of the body and the collar must be compatible; otherwise the collar shrinks relative to the body and waves. This compatibility is achieved both through the right fabric combination and through controlled finishing. For the test and fastness approach, you can review the quality test guide.

On the colour side, when the body and collar are the same colour, the risk of metamerism and batch difference must be managed: the separately knitted collar and the body may come from different dyeing batches and must be matched to a ΔE<1 target. At KARCEM, knitting in-house and coordinating dyeing through a vetted contract network under one point of contact allows the body and collar fabric to be produced and matched under the same control.

What, in summary, should be considered when choosing pique, lacoste or jersey?

To summarise the three structures in a single sentence: pique is the balanced standard of the classic polo, lacoste its finer and premium variant, and jersey its flat-surfaced and elastic alternative. Double pique stands out in structured corporate products, single pique in the lightweight summer polo, lacoste in the retail premium segment, and jersey with elastane in sports and body-hugging models.

In practice, the right decision is made by treating the fabric not as an isolated preference but as a system together with weight, yarn, print/embroidery method and collar engineering. Because fabrics of very different hand and quality can be produced under the same name "pique", the decision should always be clarified through physical samples and test results. For a comprehensive view specific to polos, review the polo fabric selection page, and for the basis of knit structures, the knitted fabric guide.

To see how it relates to other surface textures, look at the two/three thread (french terry) and ponte/jacquard knit content; and for collar and body stability, the dimensional stability and spirality page.

Frequently asked questions

What exactly is the structural difference between pique, lacoste and jersey?

All three derive from the single jersey family; the difference lies in the stitch arrangement. Jersey (plain single jersey) produces a smooth surface using only knit stitches. Pique uses tuck stitches, and sometimes miss (float) stitches, to create a three-dimensional, porous honeycomb texture. Lacoste is a pique variant knitted with a finer yarn at a higher density and a smaller cell, giving a more closed and even surface.

Should we choose single pique or double pique for a polo?

Single pique is knitted on a single needle bed; it is thin, supple, lightweight and breathable, but it tends to curl at the edges and has lower opacity. This structure suits summer polos and less formal styles. Double pique is a double-knit construction; it yields a firmer, more stable, less-curling fabric with good opacity, and is preferred for corporate and structured polo shirts.

Which fabric should we choose for which use case?

For a classic corporate/promotional polo, pique, usually double pique, is the standard; texture, collar stability and print surface are well balanced. For a finer, refined, premium look, lacoste is preferred and suits upper-segment retail branded products. For sport/active use, women's fit and body-hugging styles, elastane jersey stands out, providing a smooth surface and high stretch.

How do printing and embroidery methods affect fabric selection?

The fabric decision should not be made independently of the printing and embroidery method. On a pronounced honeycomb pique surface, fine-line transfer prints can distort; a denser lacoste or jersey offers a smoother print base. Embroidery, on the other hand, sits more stably on full-bodied double pique. For this reason, structure, weight, print/embroidery method and collar design should be evaluated together.

Is weight alone an indicator of polo quality?

No. Weight (GSM) is the fabric's weight per square metre and is decisive for firmness, opacity and drape; a mid-to-upper range is commonly preferred for polos. However, the same GSM can give a very different hand with a different yarn count (Ne) and knit density. A finely and tightly knitted fabric holds up more evenly and durably than a thick, loosely knitted one even at the same weight; weight should be assessed together with yarn and knit density.

What keeps a polo collar standing upright after washing?

The collar is usually knitted and sewn separately from the body, as a rib or a flat lacoste/pique piece; its stability is a distinct engineering matter. Three factors are decisive: knit structure, yarn recovery and finishing. Double-faced (interlock-like) structures curl less, an elastane rib returns to shape better, and sanforizing and heat-setting reduce shrinkage and spirality distortion. The shrinkage rates of the body and collar must also be compatible.