Greige Fabric: Types, Production and Sourcing Guide

Greige fabric is fabric that has been knitted or woven from yarn but has not yet gone through any dyeing, printing or finishing; it is still in its natural off-white, greige state. In this state it can be dyed, printed and finished for its end use, so it represents the first half of production. In B2B textiles, buyers choose greige fabric so that the garment maker can apply its own colour and finishing choices. This guide covers the definition of greige, the difference between greige knit and greige woven, the production flow, GSM and width, a purchasing checklist and the kg-to-metre calculation.

What is greige fabric?

In textile literature, greige describes fabric that has come off the machine and has not yet seen any wet processing. At this stage the fabric still carries the natural oils of the yarn, the sizing or lubricants used during knitting or weaving, and its natural colour. That colour usually sits between off-white and a light cream-grey depending on the yarn, which is why it is called “greige” (grey + beige).

In the greige state, the fabric’s final dimensions, hand feel and weight have not settled yet. During dyeing and finishing the fabric is washed, opened, dyed or printed if required, and gains dimensional stability through processes such as sanforising and heat-setting. The GSM and width of greige fabric therefore differ from those of the finished fabric. A buyer who purchases greige keeps the colour and finishing decision in their own hands and gains flexibility; in return, they need to manage dyeing and finishing themselves or leave it to a supplier they trust.

Greige knit or greige woven? A comparison

Greige fabric falls into two large families: knits (a loop structure) and wovens (a warp-and-weft structure). They are made on completely different machines and go to different end uses. Knitted fabric stretches and is used for T-shirts, sweatshirts, underwear and sportswear. Woven fabric is generally more stable and goes into shirts, trousers and upholstery.

Related: see our detailed greige knit vs greige woven comparison.

“Greige cloth”, calico and muslin: clearing up the confusion

Buyers who search for “greige cloth” are often looking for a woven fabric: an undyed, plain-woven cotton known as calico or muslin (in Turkey, “ham bez” or “Amerikan bezi”). It is used for linings, toiles and fittings, packaging and print trials. So not every buyer looking for “greige fabric” wants woven cloth; greige knit fabric and calico are different products.

To be clear: KARCEM produces the knitted side. On our circular knitting machines we produce knit structures such as single jersey, rib, interlock and two- and three-thread fleece in greige form; we do not produce woven greige cloth (calico). If you need a knitted fabric that stretches, you are in the right place; if you need a plain-woven lining cloth, you will need a different supply channel.

How is greige fabric produced?

Greige knit production starts with yarn. The selected yarn (cotton, modal, viscose, polyester or blends) is fed into a circular knitting machine; the needle arrangement and knit pattern determine which structure is produced (single jersey, rib, interlock, French terry and so on). What comes off the machine is undyed greige knit fabric.

This greige fabric then goes on to commission dyeing, printing and finishing: washing and pretreatment, dyeing or printing, then final finishing such as sanforising or heat-setting. The finishing step determines the fabric’s dimensional stability, hand feel and final weight. In the KARCEM model the process from yarn to finished fabric runs through a single point of contact: knitting on our own machines, dyeing, printing and finishing in a vetted contract network.

GSM, width and tubular vs open width

In greige knit fabric, two basic measurements drive the economics of production: weight and width. Weight is the mass per square metre (GSM, g/m²). KARCEM’s production range is 90–700 GSM, covering everything from fine single jersey for T-shirts to heavy three-thread fleece. Published typical weights by structure: single jersey 120–200+, interlock 160–260, rib 180–320 and elastane structures 160–280 GSM.

Width has a distinction specific to knits: tubular width and open width. Fabric leaves a circular knitting machine as a seamless cylinder (a tube); the value measured in this form is the tubular width. When the fabric is slit lengthways and laid flat, you get the open width (roughly twice the tubular width, less the edge allowance). Underwear and some T-shirt applications prefer tubular width, while many garment makers ask for open width for cutting efficiency. Specifying the width form when ordering is critical for the calculation and the cutting plan.

Greige fabric purchasing checklist

Items to settle at the quotation and sampling stage when buying greige knit fabric:

• Composition: yarn type and blend ratio (e.g. 100% cotton, 95% cotton 5% elastane). Fibre choice directly affects hand feel and cost.
• GSM and tolerance: the target weight and the accepted ± tolerance band should be in writing.
• Width: tubular or open width; target width.
• MOQ: minimum order quantity per colour or structure.
• Certification: documents such as GOTS, OCS, GRS, RCS, BCI where required.
• Samples: a physical sample before approval and, if needed, lab-dip approval.

Related: for the pre-order process see MOQ, sampling and lead time and the 4-point inspection system.

How do you convert kilograms to metres?

Greige knit fabric is usually bought and sold by the kilogram, but the garment plan needs metres. Converting between the two depends on weight and width. The practical formula:

metres ≈ (1000 × kg) ÷ (width (m) × GSM)

Example: assume you buy 100 kg of 180 GSM single jersey at 1.80 m open width. Calculation: (1000 × 100) ÷ (1.80 × 180) = 100,000 ÷ 324 ≈ 308 metres. If the same fabric were 220 GSM, you would get (1000 × 100) ÷ (1.80 × 220) ≈ 253 metres; the higher the weight, the fewer metres you get from the same kilograms. When converting a per-kilogram price into a per-metre cost, weight and width have to be considered together.

Related: for what GSM means and how to choose it, see the fabric weight (GSM) guide.

Greige knit production at KARCEM

KARCEM produces greige knit fabric with a capacity of 450 tonnes a month. In our own circular knitting park (including Mayer & Cie machines) we produce 90–700 GSM in more than 12 knit types. Knitting runs on our own machines and dyeing, printing and finishing in a vetted contract network, so you work with a single point of contact from yarn to finished fabric. We work to a ΔE<1 colour target with an archive of 20,000+ colours, reply to quote and sample requests within 24 hours, and target 98% on-time delivery (a target, not a contractual guarantee).

Related: for production details see knit fabric manufacturer and supplier in Turkey, and for wholesale supply knit fabric wholesale.

Frequently asked questions

Can greige fabric be bought by the kilogram?

Yes. Greige knit fabric is usually priced and sold by the kilogram in the industry. If you need metres, you can convert between kilograms and metres using the weight and width (metres ≈ 1000 × kg ÷ (width × GSM)). Discussing both the total kilograms and the target metres when ordering avoids misunderstandings.

Can greige fabric be dyed?

Yes — being ready for dyeing and finishing is the whole point of greige fabric. Fabric bought in greige form is brought to the required colour and hand feel at the commission dyeing, printing and finishing stage. If you want greige fabric dyed to your own colour card, this is the flexibility you get.

What is MOQ?

MOQ (minimum order quantity) is the smallest order accepted for a colour or knit structure. MOQs apply because dyeing and production lots run efficiently only above a certain volume. It varies with composition, colour and structure; the exact figure is shared at the sampling and quotation stage.

Does greige fabric shrink?

Because greige fabric has not yet been finished, it is not dimensionally stable and changes size after washing and finishing. Final dimensional stability (shrinkage behaviour) is controlled through finishing processes such as sanforising and heat-setting. Shrinkage testing is therefore meaningful on finished fabric, not on greige.

What does greige mean?

Greige comes from “grey” and “beige” and describes undyed, unfinished fabric. It refers to the natural off-white or cream colour of the fabric at this stage. In Turkish the equivalent term is “ham kumaş”.

What is the width tolerance?

Width and weight tolerances depend on the knit structure, composition and finishing process, so rather than one fixed figure, the target value and acceptance band are agreed in writing in the order contract. Width behaves more variably in elastane structures than in those without elastane. Agreeing the exact tolerance on the sample and the technical data sheet is the right approach.

How should greige fabric be stored?

Greige knit fabric should be stored in rolls in a dry, cool place out of direct sunlight and protected from humidity. Moisture and prolonged pressure can increase the risk of yellowing or staining from the natural oils in the yarn and of marks on the fabric. Rolls should be stacked neatly without direct contact with the floor.

What is the difference between greige knit and greige woven?

Greige knit is made with a loop structure and stretches; it goes into T-shirts, sweatshirts and underwear. Greige woven is made by crossing weft and warp, is more stable and is used for shirts, trousers and upholstery. They are produced on different machines; calico and muslin belong to the woven side, while KARCEM represents the knitted side.

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